经济学人:巴基斯坦餐馆 食品安全问题曝光(01)

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Food in Pakistan: Stepping up to the plate

巴基斯坦的食物:开始行动

One province is beginning to take food safety seriously - will it last?

巴基斯坦的一个省开始重视食品安全问题——会持续下去吗?

Something catches the eye on Anarkali Food Street in Lahore, the capital of Punjab province.

阿纳尔克里食品街位于旁遮普省首府拉合尔市,街上的一些现象引起了人们的注意。

Bakers are pulling nan bread out of a tandoor oven, just as they did when the 200-year-old bazaar was founded.

这个集市已经有200多年的历史,当烘培者把面包从炉子中取出来,他们的做法和集市刚建立时一样。

One detail, however, is strikingly contemporary: synthetic paper hairnets, in a vivid shade of green.

然而,里面有一个细节是非常现代化的:用合成纸做的鲜绿色发罩。

“We are worried about the food inspector,” explains Muhammad Aslam, as he wraps dough around a stone.

默罕默德·阿斯拉姆正在把生面团围绕一块石头放好,他说:“我们很怕那些食品卫生监督员。”

The feared scrutineers belong to the Punjab Food Authority (PFA) , the first agency of its kind in Pakistan.

这些令人生畏的监察者是旁遮普食品监察局(PFA)的,它是巴基斯坦第一个食品监督机构,成立于2011年。

Founded in 2011, it has its work cut out: some restaurants use rancid cooking oil, keep raw chicken on the floor or try to pass off donkey as beef.

PFA已经发现了很多食品安全问题,例如一些餐馆使用变质的油,把生鸡肉放在地上,用驴肉充当牛肉。

Such a scandal is the state of hygiene in Pakistan's restaurants that television shows about crime often feature exposes of particularly abhorrent eateries, using jerky footage from hand-held cameras.

这样的丑闻是巴基斯坦餐馆的卫生现状,电视上相关犯罪节目使用手持相机拍摄不稳定画面,经常会曝光一些特别令人厌恶的餐馆。

The PFA's new chief, Noorul Amin Mengal, says it cannot hope to keep tabs on all Punjab's food outlets.

旁遮普食品监察局的新任长官Noorul Amin Mengal 称,该组织无法密切关注旁遮普所有的餐饮店铺。

On April 17th he proposed that restaurant customers conduct their own food inspections, using a smartphone app produced by the PFA.

4月17日,他提议餐馆顾客自己用旁遮普食品监察局推出的智能手机应用来做食品检查。

But restaurants will be hostile to such intrusion: most of them do not welcome visitors to their kitchens.

但是餐馆会对这样的行为充满敌意:大多数餐馆都不欢迎外人进入厨房。

Your correspondent asked to enter several in Lahore, in both down-at-heel establishments and ritzy ones, and was barred each time.

在拉合尔,当记者提出进入几家餐厅的厨房时,无一例外地都被拦在外面,不论那家餐厅是破败的还是装潢时髦的。

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